The Satpura National Park is cradled in the Satpura Ranges (Mahadeo Hills) and straddles the State of Madhya Pradesh. With the adjoining Bori & Pachmarhi Sanctuaries, Satpura N.P. provides 1427 sq. kms of unique Central Indian Highland ecosystem that covers India's wild denizens. The Satpura N.P.(set up in 1981 and 524 sq. kms) is beautiful and unspoiled. It represents nature at its very best. The fascinating deep valleys, high mountains, rivulets, waterfalls and Tawa's vast reservoir combine to give this Park an unique beauty. The terrain is extremely rugged and consists of sandstone peaks, narrow gorges, ravines and dense forests. The altitude ranges from 300 mts. to 1352 mts. From the 4500 feets Dhoopgarh peak to the almost level plains of Churna the ride is only 60 kms but it takes about 5 hours to travel from the cool environs of Pachmarhi resort to the edge of the Tawa reservoir. This Park is unlike the safari park atmosphere of Ranthambhore, Bandhavgarh, Kaziranga, Gir and many more of that type. A Satpura experience is not a conducted tour jamboree. Here creature comforts are for the creatures of the forest. If you are a keen wildlife enthusiast and are the sort who travel miles to just breathe jungle fresh air & marvel at the sights and sounds of nature then a few days at Satpura is for you. Amenities are basic but functional. Your hosts, the Forest Department Staff, are wonderful and are any day a better choice than their well-heeled cousins at the more popular and commercial parks, which attract tourists and not nature lovers.

Satpura & Bori abounds in the Central Province wildlife. The bio-diversity is stunning with over 1300 species of plants which includes numerous rare bryophytes and pteridophytes. While Sal & Teak forests are abundant, Central India mixed deciduous forests covers a major part of the area. An evident eyesore is the rampant and unchecked growth of Lantana. The meadows and valleys have been completely taken over by this invader. The terrain, which is covered by some of the oldest Sal & Teak forests in India is the home to 50 mammal species, 254 bird species & 30 species of reptiles. The Tiger, Gaur, Leopard, Indian Giant Squirrel, Sambar, Sloth Bear, Chital, Barking Deer, Wild Boar, Rhesus Monkey, Langur, Nilgai, Hyena, Wild Dogs, Smooth Otter, Pangolin, Porcupine, Marsh Crocodile, Ratel, Four Horned Antelope and many other species of wildlife are seen. Birds are everywhere and Malabar Pied Hornbills, Crested Serpent Eagles, Crested Hawk Eagles, Honey Buzzards, Paradise Flycatchers, Pittas, Thrushes, Peafowl, Pheasants fill the air with their calls.

Once you are in Bori or Satpura don't expect to see tigers posing for the next telephoto lens. My experience is fleeting glimpses of animals that are clearly not used to the presence of humans. This could be due to fear or inexperience. The scene, however, dramatically changes as the lights go down. Churna is full of life and almost every turn yields a surprised Sambar stag or a foraging sloth bear. You get a momentary glimpse before the dense foliage hides its comrades from the preying eyes. Darkness pierced by the spotlights present a magical vista, foreboding yet magnetic. The forest tracks are basic and little used. Be ready to hold on for your life as the Jeep hurtles through a sea of grass taller than the roof of your open vehicle. The winter nights are bitter cold, and as you shiver in the darkness your attention is drawn to the dual pugmarks painting the tracks you left behind an hour ago. Jungle darkness, a single and open car, and a pair of predators on the loose is what my dreams of Wild India is made up of. The forests of Satpura can make such dreams come true. But this paradise like many others in our country is threatened. Politics and population are a lethal combination and animals don't have votes.....and even if they did it wouldn't count for much given the dwindling numbers. There are 17 villages inside the Park and Sanctuary area and if that is not enough of a disturbance, the neighbours also make merry. The law allows one head load of fallen forest produce for people who are dependent on the forest. You would only need to spend a few minutes on the national highway before you loose count of the number of people apparently dependent on the riches of nature. It is not absurd to imagine total habitat destruction in M.P. if this rate of denudation continues in the name of protection of the forest cover.

The Satpura N.A. & Bori Sanctuary can be approached from Pachmarhi. Pachmarhi is connected by regular bus services with Bhopal, Hoshangabad, Nagpur, Pipariya and Chhindwara. Taxis are available at Pipariya. Pipariya (47kms), on the Bombay-Howrah main-line via Allahabad, is the most convenient railhead. The nearest airport is Bhopal (195kms) connected by regular flights with Delhi, Gwalior, Indore and Bombay. Churna is best approached from the eastern side from Pachmarhi. You can also reach it from the west from Itarsi via Bhaura and Dhansai. Itarsi rail junction is 75 kms from Churna while Pachmarhi is 60 kms away. Churna can also be approached from the National Highway by crossing the Tawa Reservoir in a motor launch. This perhaps is the better exit from the park and is just a few hours drive from Bhopal. You can also drive up to Neemghan through the Panarpani gate, which is close to Pachmarhi. For the 30 kms drive you can get permits from the Panarpani gate. This is a day trip as no accommodation is available.

Pachmarhi is a Hill Resort and has many small and medium hotels which provides you with good accommodation. Hotels like Pachmarhi, Saket, suit the budget of any tourist. Apart from the hotels there are guesthouses (like Amaltas (MP Tourism), Holiday Homes (MPT), Rock-End Manor (MPT)) which are good to stay. Staying inside the park is must if you want the Satpura experience. Basic accommodation and food is available at the Churna Tourism Bungalow. The stay is comfortable and the amenities are adequate. Bori and Dhain also have Forest Bungalows deep inside the park. All arrangements must be made with the DCF, Satpura Range.

Nature and Central Province wildlife: The reserve is famous for it's Gaur and Giant Squirrels. There are a fair number of tigers and it is possible to sight this majestic animal if you are lucky. Churna seems to be the best location for sighting most of the animals including the rare ones.